|
Before you start - Next job (I learnt this from
my mistakes) is to shorten the new grips a fraction, at the end furthest
away from the wires which is raised a bit ( to stop hand sliding off bars)
This has to be removed otherwise the grips are too long, and the bar
weights will not go back on properly (esp so on the Throttle side). Hold the grip(s) up to the
bars and carefully mark what has got to be cut off. Be VERY careful ! You do not want to cut too much off and cut into the wires in the grips ! Removing this with the grips
off the bike is far easier than trying to do it with the grips glued in
place. A small tube of glue comes
with the Motrax grips, smear some of this on the bars and twist the new
grips on. Make a note that the grips have different diameter holes and can
only go on one side or the other of the bars. The throttle side has the
larger diameter. When putting the throttle grip
on make sure it does not butt up tight to the Kill switch Box, or Vista
Cruise if fitted. Allow a small gap to let the throttle work properly and
not rub on the box.. On my bike I had the wires underneath the bars on the
clutch side, and above the bars on the throttle side, the reason for this
was because on the Clutch side it is an easy job to cable tie to the
existing wiring coming from the bars, leaving no loose at all. On the
throttle side I had the wires above the bars and cable tied to the brake
lines (rightly or wrongly), I felt this to be the safer option as you have
to leave some loose to allow for the throttle working. This way I can easily see the
wiring whereas under the bars I may miss it if it starts chafing on
anything. Make sure the throttle works properly, as in shutting off when you release it!! The on/off switch I mounted on
the top of the yoke. It could be mounted elsewhere but again I found this
to be the easiest place for me to operate it from. The switch comes with its own
sticky pad, but before sticking it down, ensure the yoke is warm(ish) and
clean. Clean with alcohol or similar
and let dry, unless your bike is in a nice warm garage, warm the yoke with
a hairdryer it will help the sticky pad to stick better. Run the wire down between the
yoke and the fuel tank Once this is done the grips
can now be plugged into the switch wiring loom. Wiring
the grips to the bike. Next job is to unbolt the fuel
tank, unclip the two plastic panels either side of the tank (they don't
have to be removed) and being very careful not to pull any pipes off the
tank slide the tank sideways (To the offside of the bike) it may be best
to get help at this stage, though the tank only need to move sideways
about an inch ( I coped on my own ). Plug the supplied loom onto
the grip wires. Run the wire down the nearside
of the bike, between the plastic side panel and the air intake box (also
black plastic). At this point before cable
tying anything, move the handlebars from side to side making sure no wire
is being stretched or caught, then tidy up and cable tie as applicable,
esp important is to make sure there is enough loose wire on the wire to
allow for the turning of the bars.
Beside the point where the
tank is bolted on to the frame of the bike is a 10mil nut with wire
(green) attached to it. Unbolt this and fit the black
wire to it and bolt it up again. This is the ground or earth wire. Just behind the battery is a
white connector. It has a thin white/green
tracer wire going into it. The wire feeds the stop
lights, and indicator relay and the pass light relay. It is fed via a
10Amp fuse so has more than enough spare amperage capacity to handle the
grips. It only becomes 'live' when
the ignition is turned on. Carefully check which side of
the block the wire is (White with thin green stripe) and splice into the
thicker black wire on the other side of the block, I used a Scotchlock for
now. A better explanation of doing this (Including pictures) is Clive
Johnsons excellent piece on fitting a GPS system, under Tech Concerns on
the forum. ( Click here to view write up. The relevant
picture is about 2/3rd down the page ) Some one
has suggested that the grips could be wired in behind the clocks. This
I do not know, and having little knowledge of electric's I will leave that
for someone else to find out, I found the grips to be fairly easy to fit,
even having made a couple of mistakes, which I hope I have highlighted,
this coming from someone who the biggest job on a bike so far has been to
fit a Scottoiler to a CB500! |
